The Buyer Article on wines at the ABS Masters of Riesling Tasting
ABS Wine Agencies, Thu 23 Jul 2026
Germany’s wines are enjoying a renaissance in the UK, with July’s annual ’31 Days of German Wine’ campaign lifting sales by an average of 349%, so it seemed like an opportune moment for Awin Barratt Siegel to draw attention to its burgeoning German portfolio, including a stellar new addition, Weingut Robert Weil, for its popular ‘Masters of Riesling’ showcase at London’s Caledonian Club. The Buyer’s David Kermode went along to sample the latest Riesling releases and found some top-notch Pinot Noir providing a delicious diversion.
Weingut Rober Weil Kiedrich Turmberg Riesling Trocken 2024
Weingut Robert Weil is a fourth-generation family winery that’s a relative newcomer to the ABS portfolio, having moved from Bibendum last year. Based in the Rheingau, a small undulating region of 3,000 hectares, it is a Riesling specialist working the mineral rich, slate soils of the Kiedricher Berg, offering superb terroir expression. This organic wine, from the Turmberg (meaning tower) vineyard entices with mineral drive, lime pith and green apple. The palate is lithe, with a subtle nutty texture from the use of large format oak, while the finish feels as fresh as a pebble plucked from a mountain stream.
Weingut Robert Weil Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Spätlese 2025
“Perfect balance is in our DNA” declares Robert Weil’s export manager, Julius Paetzold, as he pours me this Spätlese (late harvest) Riesling, from the rocky soils of the historic Gräfenberg vineyard. And ‘perfectly balanced’ would be the apposite description of this wine with its voluptuous stone fruit, balancing lime acidity, hints of hay barn and toffee apple, the silky texture is mouth-coating but never sticky. Wines from this vineyard once adorned the grandiose dining tables of rich Prussian royals, but I’d favour a more modern pairing with a Thai green curry.
Weinhaus Robert Weil Junior Grauburgunder 2025
Weinhaus Robert Weil is a brand extension that also represents a geographical add-on, as it covers a range of wines produced from purchased fruit, much of it from the larger neighbouring region of Rheinhessen, just over the river. Grauburgunder is, of course, Pinot Gris (and will soon be labelled as such) and “the Germans are going absolutely mad for it”, according to Paetzold. It’s easy to see why, because this is a fresh, juicy, citrusy, fruit forward, well-constructed, summer sipper that’s a million miles from the plonky Pinot Grigio that sadly still dominates supermarket shelves.
Dönnhoff Felsenberg Riesling Dry GG 2023
Based in Oberhausen, Dönnhoff is a fourth-generation family winery renowned for some of the finest Grosse Lagen vineyards in the Nahe region. It was difficult to choose a favourite from an impressive array of almost 20 Riesling wines on show, but this GG, from a steep southerly vineyard and a vintage described as ‘crystal clear and harmonious’wowed me with its range and complexity, the bountiful citrus and stone fruit balanced by a lithe structure and juicy lime leaf.
Jean Stodden Sonnenberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2024
A renowned Pinot Noir specialist, based in the Ahr, celebrated for its old vines, some of them more than a century old, the Jean Stodden team were showing some exceptional cuvées from the ‘demanding but ultimately rewarding’ 2024 vintage, with this wine from limestone-rich soils a particular highlight. With bountiful red fruit, herbal complexity and smooth tannins, it has hidden power, like an iron fist in a velvet glove.
Louis Guntrum Nierstein Hipping Riesling GG 2019
Established in 1648, family-owned and now operated by the 11th generation, Louis Guntrum, based in the Rheinhessen town of Nierstein, a celebrated Riesling specialist, was generously pouring this stunning GG (‘Grosses Gewächs’, the top tier of German wine) 2019 example, with gentle petrol aromas, mountain honey, hay, summer meadow blossom and golden apple, dancing around a firm core of pithy Sicilian lemon. A textural treat, with a pronounced finish, delicious now, but one to stash away in the cellar.
Louis Guntrum Pinot Noir 2025
Beyond its fabled Riesling, Louis Guntrum boasts a broad portfolio of wines from heritage Germanic grapes, helpfully labelled with internationally understood varietal names. Opening with an inviting herbal nose, sour cherry and plum crumble, this is a sleek and statuesque Pinot Noir, packed with bright red fruit, soft tannins and gentle hints of vintage car leather. Delicious.
Fürst Tradition Pinot Noir 2024
Effectively the entry level wine from a highly respected producer of Pinot Noir, based in Franken, just east of Frankfurt. Courtesy of some fierce late frosts, the ’24 vintage was low yielding, but it delivered high quality and this is a lovely example, exhibiting brooding cherry/berry character, silky tannins, with hints of baking spice and blueberry muffin.
WALT Pinot Noir 2024
I’m a huge fan of the current fashion for chillable reds and this bright, fruit forward Pinot Noir is a perfect fit for the fridge door. The striking, thoroughly modern, red and blue label actually belies a winery established in Wiesbaden in 1887. Leading off with red cherry, cranberry and raspberry, the Pfalz fruit is fresh and juicy, with soft tannins, a grind of black pepper and smattering of spice. It’s the perfect summer party red.