We talked to Léa Desprat, Export Manager of Desprat Saint Verny the only co-operative in the Côtes d'Auvergne, who make our new Le Tracteur Vert. Established in 1885, Léa represents the 5th generation to work in the family business.
WAS IT INEVITABLE THAT YOU WOULD END UP IN THE FAMILY WINE BUSINESS, DID YOU TOY WITH THE IDEA OF A DIFFERENT CAREER BEFORE JOINING DESPRAT SAINT VERNY?
It was all very avoidable that I would work for the family company, it was even unlikely that I would work for it! Indeed, I studied in international business, I travelled a lot and I lived rather in big cities. Just before joining Desprat Saint Verny, I worked for a multinational in Paris specialized in innovation consulting and I worked for the energy sector ... nothing to see ... Nothing destined for me to return to my native region and to produce and sell wine.
However, the project to promote the wines of Auvergne, the highlighting of my native region, the challenges of volcanic wines, the new international dimension, the family company created in 1885 (I am the fifth generation), the beauty of my region, (maybe also my genes. ..), made me want to take an interest in the project and come back to work in the region.
WHAT IS IT ABOUT THE AUVERGNE REGION THAT MAKES IT SO SPECIAL TO YOU?
Auvergne is a fabulous region. First of all the landscape and the volcanoes are magnificent, the air is pure, the people are very nice, the weather is very often beautiful with a great rate of sunshine. Then I grew up there, so there is a lot of affection ....
From a professional point of view, Auvergne is a gold nugget: we are the only 100% volcanic vineyard in France, on the largest and oldest chain of Volcanoes (80 volcanoes), classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Very few vineyards in the world have vines on volcanoes, it is very rare! In addition, on our volcanic soil we have three types of soil: peperite, Basalt and pumice. We even have a variety of volcanic soil! The climate is ideal for the vines, sunny, a very regulated hydrometry thanks to the effect of Foehn. All these conditions make that we have wines in adequacy with the tastes of our customers: fresh thanks to the altitude, fruity thanks to the sun, mineral and saline thanks to the soil. We have wines with great drinkability!
VOLCANIC WINES ARE BECOMING INCREASINGLY POPULAR, WHAT DO YOU BELIEVE IS THE ONE CHARACTERISTIC THAT MAKES A VOLCANIC WINE STAND OUT FROM OTHERS.
From a scientific point of view, studies have been carried out and we ourselves are in close contact with John Szabo and his team of scientists to do studies on the volcanic soil of Auvergne ... The results soon to come.
The studies agree with the tasting feeling in large part: volcanic wines have a real salinity whatever the place where it is cultivated (by the sea or not). It is flagrant! As much for red wines as for whites.
We also find a lot of minerality and freshness, thanks to the volcanic soil, the stone.
Red wines often have a hint of spice and pepper. It is surprising but very characteristic of these wines.
Volcanic wines are in fact more and more in demand; renowned sommeliers are really interested in these wines because they are really different from what we are used to drinking all the time, with very specific characteristics. The link between wines is not made on the vine, the wine-growing region or even the country it is made exclusively on the ground. It is fascinating to find common features between a Sicilian wine, a wine from Etna and a wine from Auvergne. The VINORA fair, the first international fair for volcanic wines, which took place in Clermont Ferrand in January 2020, really made us aware of these similarities.
WHICH GRAPE DO YOU BELIEVE IS THE VARIETAL MOST SUITED TO VOLCANIC SOILS AND WHY?
I cannot say that a single grape variety is made for volcanic soils. It is also very interesting to taste the different grape varieties that are planted on volcanic soils. In Auvergne we mainly work with Gamay and Pinot Noir for the reds and rosés and Charodonnay for the whites wines (these are our specifications for the AOP). But we also have a little Syrah and Pinot Gris. The result is brilliant! We are also experimenting with other grape varieties ...
Pinot Noir has always been in great demand because it is a known grape variety; we have a very good quality / price ratio on this variety and the volcanic soil gives it a real originality.
But in recent years we have noticed a real enthusiasm for Gamay. It is a variety that has been shunned for years but which is making a comeback. People rediscover it and learn to appreciate it; the grape variety is not everything, we know that it can be expressed differently depending on the soil of course but also on viticulture, vinification, aging ... Tracteur Vert that we start is a wonderful example of Gamay fruity, but which also has substance, character, a point of spices and a lot of freshness. A formidable ally whatever the situation.
I think the gamay flourishes and matches very well with the volcanic soil!
IF YOU WERE ABLE TO WORK FOR ANY WINERY IN ANY COUNTRY, WHERE WOULD YOU CHOOSE AND WHY?
Desprat saint Verny of course! I would never have so much fun and passion to work elsewhere. I work for the family company, created in 1885, I am the fifth generation! I work with my sister and my father! There is necessarily a passion, a story of the heart! And then I produce the wine of my region, it makes sense to me, I am passionate about my work and my mission.
IF YOU FOUND YOURSELF STRANDED ON A DESERT ISLAND, WHAT ARE THE 3 THINGS YOU WOULDN’T WANT TO BE WITHOUT?
Very difficult question!
I am from Auvergne, so the basis for me is:
A bottle of Auvergne wine
A corkscrew
Cheese (from Auvergne)
